As he walked
through the city, Leonardo couldn’t help but notice how little had changed
since he had last been there. Lisbon
was like always, like it had always been, at least to his knowledge; Big
avenues clashed against narrow streets, uneven and dirty. Modern buildings
contrasted inelegantly with old, late nineteenth and early twentieth century
classic constructions. Historical monuments, nearly glued to ugly, modern,
giant malls. Luxurious condominiums built in poor neighbourhoods. The concept
of urbanism in the Portuguese capital appeared to have been masticated by a
triturating machine and sputtered all over the city’s famous seven hills.
Walking around in the midst of the chaos,
Leonardo notices that the whole thing sports an uncanny resemblance to school
portraits, the kind you will find in any regular school year book – every
student has a unique expression; most of them smile, some of them choose to
make funny faces instead, some just look up or down and in some cases, the class
rebel or rebels might discretely slip an obscene gesture into the otherwise
civilized picture. The evoqued nostalgic picture puts a
slight smile on his face, there was something comforting about yearbook
portraits. Maybe it reminded him of simpler times, or maybe it just reminded
him of some old friends that he hadn’t send in a long time and maybe would
never see again. Or maybe, it was the thought of a time when he truly belonged
to a group what had made him smile.
But every once in a while, a few gems
shine through the confusion of the city, shedding a special class of raw urban
beauty into the metropolis, conferring it that sort of charm that you can’t
quite describe. Those rare, hidden places are where the essence of the city can
still be truly experienced; Viewpoints form which you can admire the splendour
of the river Tagus. Or green gardens, carefully groomed, where it’s almost
impossible not stop for a while and take in the beauty and tranquillity
transpired by the bushes and flowers. Sometimes it’s an old church that has
been there for so long that the city just grew around it, engulfing it, and
ended up forgetting it’s there. Or a lovely café, the like of which Pessoa
would write his poetries at. Traditional shops frequented by nice people. Restaurants
where you can taste traditional dishes from Lisbon . Those places, relics of a bygone era
protect Lisbon
against its own psychosis, a city that is a thousand years old and yet pretends
to be modern, wants to be something it’s not.
Curiously, Leonardo’s destination
that day was precisely the opposite of those places that he so much revered in Lisbon . It was instead,
one could say, one of the many new accessories the old city decided to acquire
in its desperate quest to feel young; a Planet Starbucks, located in the
“baixa”, one of Lisbon ’s
most traditional and touristic neighbourhoods. He could have taken a cab, or
the subway, but he preferred to walk that day. This was a Sunday after all, a
day to rest, to take your time doing things.
He also liked walking, whenever he
had the time to do so, because walking helped him to think. That day, not
unlike many other days, he was thinking about the direction his life was
taking. From an objective point of view, things seemed to be going in the right
direction, thanks to Manuel who had been able and kind enough to find him a
good job or internship in any case. And yet there just wasn’t something that
wasn’t right about it. The proof of it was that he was starting to entertain
the thought of not going back to work the next day. Realistically, he wouldn’t
do that. It would be embarrassing to Manuel, and it would get him into a whole
lot of trouble with his family. His mom would even maybe kick him out, after
telling him for the hundredth time that she didn’t want a bum for a son. No, he
would go back to work and he knew it, but the thought of not going back was a
nice one to entertain nevertheless.
As he walked down the Avenida da
Liberdade, the most expensive and majestic part of town, Leonardo passes by a big
group of northern European tourists, deeply concentrated whilst looking at
their maps, probably trying to figure out the location of some nearby monument
or famous square. As he walked pasted
them, one of them looked at him and for a second Leonardo though he was going
to ask him directions, but then, probably because he was a little bit shy, he
turned his sight back to his map and tried to figure it out by himself.
A few meters ahead, Leonardo came
across a bunch of posters, advertising Toni Carreira´s new concert. Toni
Carreira is basically the Portuguese Julio Iglesias, only much worse; more pathetic, more
depressing, more painful when you have no place to run to and you’re forced to
listen to his agonizing music. As he looks at his pseudo Don Juan face, and
sees the fake smile, Leonardo almost feels sick.
‘I can’t believe this guy is still around’, Leonardo
whispers to himself, genuinely surprised.
Leonardo starts to think about all his fans; desperate
housewives and housekeepers, in their forties, fifties and sixties, turned
fatter and uglier by uninteresting or hard lives, neglected by their husbands,
abused by their estranged sons who became drug addicts, or otherwise victims of
depressing events. Life has taken its toll. There they are, eager to
scream and jump and sweat, all together at the concert of the great Tony
Carreira. They sport fifty-euro-perms and wear five euro fake shirts and
blouses and they all sing hysterically, in unison, the most famous chorus
produced by the great Tony. There he is, on the stage, the suburban Portuguese
pop star, in flesh and bones, clapping and singing along with his most
dedicated fans. The choir of house wives is in flames, they can hardly believe
it! They’re going crazy now. Some of them can’t resist the emotion and end up
fainting, while others reach the ultimate ecstasy and you can see how vaginal
fluids run down their varix-ridden, celluloid-dominated white legs as they jump
and dance and shake with pleasure… This mental, deprived suburban fable is getting too
graphic, so Leonardo forces himself to push the eject button, and continues to
walk towards the low part of town (“baixa” in Portuguese).
As kept walking forward, the buildings and streets
started to become progressively less familiar to him. Leonardo had no sense of direction to speak
of and his memory had always been terrible for most useful things in life, so
in his life getting lost was pretty much a very common occurrence. As he now
looked around, he assumed that that was the case once again.
The Avenida da Liberdade now laid more than 250 meters
behind him. Starbucks, if David’s instructions were correct, was supposed to be
right there. Leonardo took a good look around. He was now in the middle of a
square and, looking at the buildings attentively, he was happy to recognize one
of them. He’s been there a couple of time before. It’s the theater D. Maria II.
Right next to him he notices a fountain, gushing water all around it,
sprinkling a group of tourists that were busy taking pictures. On his left side
there was a subway stop. Leonardo thought it was probably “Rossio”, although he
wasn’t sure. Right behind the station he saw the big yellow M: a Mc Donald’s
fast food restaurant. He takes a few steps in its direction, planning on asking
the employees for directions, since one of them would surely know where the
Starbucks café was located. He changed his mind almost immediately though when
he realized that the two companies probably competed for clients in this are of
town. If he took their word for certain would probably end up in the river Tagus , he thought.
Meanwhile, a dodgy looking chap walked by him and
whispered ‘You wan’t Haxixe? Marihuana? I have coke too if you wanna?’
Leonardo stared at him in bewilderment. Not because he
was selling him drugs – anyone would quickly realize after looking at the guy
that he was up to no good – what shocked him was how the dude thought that just
by whispering he would somehow go by unnoticed, as if by miracle the act of
whispering could make him invisible. Before answering, Leonardo couldn’t help
but wonder how that guy hadn’t been arrested yet, with so many policemen
patrolling that part of town.
‘No thanks,’ but uh… do you by any chance know
where the Stabucks café is?’
The
drug dealer looked at his quite surprised, although not more surprised than
Leonardo himself, who wasn’t quite sure why he had asked the drug dealer, out
of all people, for directions. Maybe his job was starting to melt his brain or
something.
‘Bro, you see that old building with the big clock? That
one there made by fucking Arabs or some shit like that’, he said, pointing at
the building. As he did so, Leonardo looked horrified at the collection of
needle marks and wounds displayed.
‘Yeah… I see it’, answered Leonardo, trying as hard as he
could to disguise the repulsion that he felt.
‘Right. Bro that’s the Rossio station. The ‘Tarbucks is
inside. Now, are you gonna buy something or not?’ the petty drug dealer asked,
smiling slightly, showing all his rotten and missing teeth.
‘Thank you, but I think I’m okay. Thanks for the
directions’, answered Leonardo darting away from the little man as fast as he
could.
* Written by my good friend Goncalo Barbosa as a favor to me.
* Written by my good friend Goncalo Barbosa as a favor to me.
.jpg)


.jpg)

